I bought a Prusa MK3 Printer Kit. I learned a lot but it took me a long time to get it printed. Watch other YouTubers to improve the printer. I believe the first printer is better because there is no gap on the SD card and the wire is not getting hot.
This was a great choice and I needed a faster printer that could be much smaller. My favorite features were the magnetic bed and direct drive.
I can print flexible material, such as TPU, right out of the box. I like that it is direct drive.
I enjoyed the price, which was reasonable. It came with all the parts and tools needed. It included a small sample of red PLA. I was able to assemble it in approximately 30 minutes, a portion of which consisted of looking at small pictures to see if that one cable went over or underneath the other. However, it turned out to be almost foolproof. The documentation was awful but it got the point across. The questions I had regarding how to route the cables turned out to be trivial and the assembly was highly intuitive. It features a MicroSD card, and an adapter for USB microSD to allow easy file transfer. A sample G code is included for an elephant and a knurled nut and bolt. I recommend printing the latter set, especially for testing. You will be impressed. The printer also comes with a slicer software called Cura. I will explain if you are new. When you view someone on Youtube printing in 3D they show an image in CAD software then they show the print extruder making the part and voila. You can create a 3D image and then save it as an.STL or.3MF file. Then, you open the file using a Slicer program like CURA and then make a file in GCode. The printer prints gcode files. The microSD allows you to transfer the G code to the printer. This is where the problem comes in for newbs. As if you were to ask a squirrel how to bury a computer program it is like searching how to use a CAD program. I recommend buying a backhoe. Spend six months on the backhoes. Step 3. Did you know that backhoes have a great attachment for breaking concrete? Is there a better method? Buy a steam shovel first. Step two, discover a source of coal for the steam shovel. The moral of the story is that it is easy to assemble. You can create a widget that you've always wanted to immediately? I recommend using GIF or BMP files in the CURA Slicer to produce flat objects. Before you print, wipe the build plate with alcohol and a tissue. When ordering filament the name LPLA is not PLA. Let it cool before removing the prints. The print size is smaller than some printers. A highly recommended option is to be prepared to learn about backhoes.
I enjoy good print quality and speed. It is a very well put together package, however, even with the instructions and videos there will be adjustments needed to get it working effectively. The tests are great but once you get past that and begin using your own prints, the problem will begin. The instructions are provided as an addition as well as how to set your extruder ends. In order to adjust Esteps, you need to extrude 100mm of filament and measure it to check if it is accurate. None of this is explained and will most likely need to be done to get good prints, especially if you print fast. You can join the flsunqqqqqsq5 facebook page for assistance.
He is a great Delta printer I would have passed on the 3D printer that I purchased if I knew the work was going well. If you need additional instruction, FLSUN has videos on YouTube that are extremely helpful for assembly. Prints are clean and accurate. The printing process is quick and quiet. The printer itself is built solidly. The selfleveling bed makes leveling simple. The Touch Screen is very responsive and intuitive. The 32 bit main board is an enormous difference when compared to the eight bit printers. It's more stable, and faster. I wish that the printing bed was a little bigger. The Delta printer provides a decent amount of printing area vertically. There are maintenance instructions included to keep your printer running smoothly. In general it is an excellent printer. If you contact them through Amazon, they will get back to you.
For a first 3D printer, you should purchase the FLSUN Q5. Other 3D printers have many issues but this printer is better. You would need to warm the bed to print the temperature, and then run the bed probe once. I did that and I will probably never have to do it again. I have never had an adhesion issue with any of my prints. However, you will have to let the bed cool off before trying to remove the print. The machine is very simple to assemble and gets started. You will be printing your test print in half an hour. The prints you get from it are great. Especially if you use tiny layer heights like 08. Take some time to learn the machine and tune your settings in your slicer software. I prefer PrusaSlicer because its default settings for Q5 are perfectly accurate. The advantage of using a Delta printer is the speed being optimized. There are pros and cons to this printer, and FLSUN also has a great community on reddit and facebook. First of all, there is no filament runout sensor. For that price, I cannot fault it. Secondly, the build volume is slightly smaller than you might think. The bed is 200 mm round. Pluto gives you more print area, so square and rectangular items have to scale down to fit in that diameter. The printer is tall, but the build height is only half the height of the printer because the hot head has to hang down. Even if those are nitpicks, the Q5 is a good choice for an inexpensive first 3D printer, or if you are interested in a Delta printer but do not want to spend a lot of money. If you would like to spend a lot of time tweaking settings and having to upgrade things then get an Ender. If you desire to print consistently, without requiring tinkering with speed and buy Q5 or SR, but also require a larger build volume.
I recently tested the new Overture PETG Orange and as usual I could not expect anything but great results. You should always try Overture 3D.
I had a little trouble initially, primarily because I am new to 3D printing, and this is my first roll of PETG. However, once I understood why this substance prints great. I'm using it for custom kayak parts. I found that I run into some difficulties when printing Ender Five Nozzle Brass Brass @260. I have worked hard to get it to stick to painters tape. I moved to a glass bed with hair spray. If you have leveled your bed correctly, it's fine. I typically pop it off easily, and I do not have any issues with it sticking. I have switched to a nickelplated nozzle. It is very helpful with stringing. I utilize a nozzle retractor. It seems that this is a useful information. I print at 20ppm, and my first layer is 15. You can go with 25, 30. It seems too fast. Maybe try 30 with a hotter nozzle temp. I have not tried it yet. I have only printed a couple of items with these new settings and will continue to slow down. It seems to be working well so far. Ordering a second spool.
The PETG filament in my ender 3 performs superiorly. There are no problems and the print quality is excellent.
I have been running a 3D printing shop on Etsy for a while now, three years, and I was going about restocking my inventory when I noticed this filament, which was slightly cheaper than the usual PETG I purchase. I decided that maybe not. The vacuum bag that comes in the box is resealable which is a nice feature, and the spool itself comes with an adhesive build surface. Initial adhesion issues, but this was resolved by releveling the bed. It is important to note that this material actually appears to print better at the lower end of the temperature window. Overall, the filament is excellent and at this price, it is a steal. I look forward to purchasing from Overture in the future.